South Bay Weekly Thursday, February 22, 2001
Kamiyama Sushi proves there is such a thing as quality takeout
| Kamiyama
Sushi · WHERE: 2408 Lomita Blvd., Suite C, Lomita · HOURS: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 4:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. Mondays through Fridays 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Saturdays; closed Sundays. · PHONE: (310) 257-1363 |
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I’m always on the lookout for top-notch takeout, particularly sushi, which can be prohibitively expensive at sushi bars and tends to be of lesser grade at many discount and takeout places. Naturally, I was thrilled to discover Kamiyama Sushi, a small mini-mall slot at the corner of Lomita Boulevard and Pennsylvania Avenue. The little outlet has no tables and just four chairs. But what it lacks in size is amply compensated for in quality—excellent sushi and an array of fun, imaginative rolls—all priced well below what you would typically pay in a sushi bar. Owner-chef Travis Kamiyama honed his skills at Gladstone’s in Universal City Walk, where he was encouraged to create special rolls to win over tourists. The young chef’s success led to the opening of his own shop in Lomita, where he has put a fresh spin on such favorites as the Dynamite roll (Kaboom! $5.95, baked with chili mayonnaise) and the Caterpillar (Waterpillar, $7.95, layered in eel and wasabi sauces). Studio City’s loss is the South Bay’s gain. Kamiyama’s imagination was working overtime when he designed such signature rolls as the Krunch, the Goliath, the Piranha and the Slur—rolls that appeal even to those who don’t typically like sushi. |
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Kamiyama employs a higher grade of crab meat than the average takeout, and it figures prominently in the specialty rolls. My favorite was the Piranha ($5.95), an eight-piece California roll wrapped in shredded crab meat infused with those ubiquitous smelt eggs. Rolled in sesame seeds and dabbed with sweet dark eel sauce, this latest addition is one of the brightest.
If your tastes run to the richer side, try the popular Krunch (eight pieces, $5.95), with its protruding tail of tempura shrimp and a fine coat of tempura batter that melts on the tongue like a layer of snowflakes. The eight piece Slur (salmon lover’s ultimate roll, $6.95) also falls into this category, a crab-asparagus roll with fresh salmon and avocado topped with eel and creamy Karpachio sauces.
The Goliath ($6.95) lived up to its name, and oversized wrap of shrimp, crab and fresh water eel coupled with exotic vegetables. It’s leaner and lighter than most of the others.
“Soy paper” is a delicate white wrap featured on the spicy House Special roll (4 pieces, $7.95) and the no frills Trip Out (4 pieces, $6.95). All too rare in Los Angeles, soy paper is a nice option for those who don’t care for the chewier black nori seaweed.
Another pleasant surprise was the mochi dessert, delicious ice cream in a chewy, gelatin-like shell. I loved it.
You’ll want to call ahead to avoid long waits during busy times. The operation is small and food this good is bound to be popular.
Greg Black is the restaurant reviewer for the South Bay Weekly. He can be reached by e-mail at sbweekly@latimes.com
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Lomita
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Manhattan Beach
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